
YM 2000D, driver's left front Stub Axel needed.
Moderator: Aaron
YM 2000D, driver's left front Stub Axel needed.
New or used, YM2000D stub axel needed. Yanmar only. Reply unsaltedbottom@Gmail.com. Have had these successfully welded by master welder in the past, but no longer available. So would appreciate recommendation of capable welder also. Requires precision welding using high amperage (~600 amp) welder. Run of the mill welding shops can not handle. Reply to unsaltedbottom@Gmail.com
Re: YM 2000D, driver's left front Stub Axel needed.
Don't know whether this is Yanmar or not. https://www.hoyetractor.com/PROD/SA-1410.htm
Re: YM 2000D, driver's left front Stub Axel needed.
Thanks Winston. I'll call Hoye to see if it is genuine Yanmar. It looks as though it is not. Some replacement stub axles made in India were being sold in U.S. as replacements for the original Yanmar stub axel. They are useless however. Low quality, poor fit, and the one we bought broke immediately under no load. After it broke we discovered that the shaft had only been tack welded to the hub. The tack welds broke immediately of course. The supplier would not stand behind the part and refused to refund. We think that the manufacturer in India simply forgot to finish the welding job before shipping the part! So we definitely won't be buying that same replacement again. I recently left the broken, genuine Yanmar axel at a local machine shop to see if they can possibly repair it.
Re: YM 2000D, driver's left front Stub Axel needed.
So here is our solution to the broken YM2000D stub axil problem. On close inspection we realized that the stub axil on the rear wheels extends through the plate to which the wheel mounts and a little beyond. This is inherently stronger than the way the front stub axils in the factory arrangement are welded flush with the plate on the front end. I took the broken front stub axil to a local machine shop and had it modified so that it mounted to the plate similar to the way the rear axils are mounted to their respective plates. This required that the axil itself be lengthen to extend through the plate and beyond through a 1/4 in thick disc also welded to the wheel side of the plate. There was also a little play between the collar around the axil on the inside of the plate and the plate, I had axil and collar modified on the inside to give a very tight fit to the plate and eliminate any play between the axil and the plate. It was this play that we think caused the original weld of the axil to the plate to fatigue and eventually break. I have pictures below that show both sides of the axil as modified by the machine shop. The axil is mounted and so far every thing is good. The cost was $300 for this modification. I hope it holds up. We previously had, in another instance of broken front stub axil, tried to use a stub axil made in India to replace the Original Yanmar stub axil, but it did not last even a day with no load other than an empty loader on the front end. Close inspection on that Indian made replacement part showed that the axil was only spot welded to the plate, so it is no wonder that it broke right away. So this is why we decided to get the axil repaired rather than trying to replace it. The original factory stub axil is apparently not available for these gray market tractors. I have a picture of the repaired stub axil I can email anyone interested. I tried to attach them here but failed because the files are two large.
In the meantime, while we were waiting for the machine shop to repair the broken stub axil we could not move the tractor, which is normally garaged. The tractor was covered with a heavy tarp and left on a high stream bank. The stream over flowed to the greatest depth in 40 years and inundated the tractor to just under the top of the air cleaner. We had water in the hydralics and in the crackcase.. and silt everywhere. We drained all fluids and flushed with new oil and hydralic oil, drained that and refilled, recharged the battery and the tractor started right up. After coughing out some water and steam and a lot of black smoke the exhaust cleared up. Then exchanged all the fluids again and replaced or cleaned the oil and hydralic oil filters. The tractor is running great now. These little Yanmars are tough tractors! Then I guess because the clutch got damp during the flood we experienced our first instance ever in about ten years of the clutch plate getting stuck to the flywheel. I'll explain how we got it unstuck under the stuck clutch topic. Suffice it to say we used a new method that i have not seen mentioned before. The usual method failed in our hands.
Thanks to everyone here for appreciated advice and suggestions.
In the meantime, while we were waiting for the machine shop to repair the broken stub axil we could not move the tractor, which is normally garaged. The tractor was covered with a heavy tarp and left on a high stream bank. The stream over flowed to the greatest depth in 40 years and inundated the tractor to just under the top of the air cleaner. We had water in the hydralics and in the crackcase.. and silt everywhere. We drained all fluids and flushed with new oil and hydralic oil, drained that and refilled, recharged the battery and the tractor started right up. After coughing out some water and steam and a lot of black smoke the exhaust cleared up. Then exchanged all the fluids again and replaced or cleaned the oil and hydralic oil filters. The tractor is running great now. These little Yanmars are tough tractors! Then I guess because the clutch got damp during the flood we experienced our first instance ever in about ten years of the clutch plate getting stuck to the flywheel. I'll explain how we got it unstuck under the stuck clutch topic. Suffice it to say we used a new method that i have not seen mentioned before. The usual method failed in our hands.
Thanks to everyone here for appreciated advice and suggestions.
Re: YM 2000D, New method to Release a Stuck clutch.
This worked for us, whereas hooking up a 4 ft finish mower to the PTO and repeatedly revving the Engine then backing off did not work for us. We may have been doing something wrong because others say this almost always works.
What we did next is this. There is a flywheel inspection port in the bell housing with a two bolt cover in front of the drivers left foot on the side of the bell housing. Remove the cover and with the aid of a light or an optic fiber scope you will see the side of the flywheel with the stuck clutch plate pressed against it. With the transmission in neutral, the engine off, and the clutch pedal depressed and latched down (The 2000D has a little right angle steel clip on the side of the transmission that can be rotated to hold the clutch pedal down.) Insert a large bladed , conventional, mechanic's screw driver with a a long shaft into the inspection port. Align the blade between the flywheel and the clutch plate and tap it gently with a rubber mallet. Rotate the flywheel and continue to try inserting the blade between flywheel and clutch plate. By rotating the fly wheel, (you'll be able to move it with the screwdriver against the flywheel teeth on the engine side of the flywheel. work around the perimeter of the clutch plate. Eventually the screwdriver blade will start to slip in between the clutch and the flywheel and the clutch and its plate will be pried back and away from the flywheel. Don't forget to use the clip to hold the clutch down whenever you shut down the engine. Don't use so much force that you might damage the clutch plate or flywheel.
What we did next is this. There is a flywheel inspection port in the bell housing with a two bolt cover in front of the drivers left foot on the side of the bell housing. Remove the cover and with the aid of a light or an optic fiber scope you will see the side of the flywheel with the stuck clutch plate pressed against it. With the transmission in neutral, the engine off, and the clutch pedal depressed and latched down (The 2000D has a little right angle steel clip on the side of the transmission that can be rotated to hold the clutch pedal down.) Insert a large bladed , conventional, mechanic's screw driver with a a long shaft into the inspection port. Align the blade between the flywheel and the clutch plate and tap it gently with a rubber mallet. Rotate the flywheel and continue to try inserting the blade between flywheel and clutch plate. By rotating the fly wheel, (you'll be able to move it with the screwdriver against the flywheel teeth on the engine side of the flywheel. work around the perimeter of the clutch plate. Eventually the screwdriver blade will start to slip in between the clutch and the flywheel and the clutch and its plate will be pried back and away from the flywheel. Don't forget to use the clip to hold the clutch down whenever you shut down the engine. Don't use so much force that you might damage the clutch plate or flywheel.
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