Making a Sub-Frame

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alan
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Making a Sub-Frame

Postby alan » Tue Dec 01, 2009 5:04 pm

On many tractors like the Yanmar, the entire drive system from engine back is the frame. I hope none of you will experience, while pulling something up with the FEL, an explosive bang, seeing fluids smoking and draining, loading a dead tractor, trying to locate a replacement bell (or clutch) housing to replace the one that split all around as if it were cardboard, fixing everything, and paying $4k for it all.

At least I can now report on making a subframe. It was designed through consulting Yanmar subframe diagrams with the input of a frame specialist and a Yanmar technician. (I needed the mid-mower to be able to raise as high as before, which the Yanmar design would have prevented because it made the rear connection to the bottom of the draw-bar holder.) I'll try to describe how to do one side of a 226. The other goes faster.

There's a hefty vertical structure behind the front wheels for mounting the rear of the FEL arm. One end of a length of half-inch by 3-inch steel, oriented vertically, will attach with 3/4" bolts onto the inboard member near the bottom.

The steel will go straight back to the axle. Fabricate a strong collar that attaches firmly to the outboard part of the axle. The steel gets welded to this collar. The rear attachment is harder than the front but should prevent a split tractor, which would be harder still.

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Postby Aaron » Wed Dec 02, 2009 8:24 am

Sounds good Alan! I can't wait to see the pictures.... you are going to post pictures right? :lol:

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Postby Norm » Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:43 am

I have always suspected that compact farm tractors were never designed to accomodate front end loaders or backhoes :? .

alan
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Postby alan » Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:25 am

I have the right equipment, namely, a wife with the patience to read the instructions for our digital camera, so walk me through how to post, and I'll try. But there's a lot of black-on-black, and a need for closeups in low and confined quarters (though the front attachment is straightforward, so the only photographic challenge will be at the back).

Aaron, I bet you could offer, for each axle end, a pair of strong half-circle brackets that would bolt together snug on the axle. One bracket would include a heavy flange welded on, to which the steel bar could be bolted. The rest would be within the capability of the average owner, at least one with a professional drill.

Before attaching the second end, I'd put a strong jack under the housing and push it up a bit (not so to raise the tires). That would eliminate the natural bow or flex of the frame components, so that after attaching, the steel bar would be under tension and ready to combat frame-strain from lifting the FEL.

I don't think this subframe would equally invite a 3-pt backhoe because the hitch components would still be vulnerable.

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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby Arnold » Sat Dec 26, 2009 12:35 am

Alan,
I have a 226D that has the subframe installed on it. I can send pictures if that would help answer any questions.

alan
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby alan » Sat Dec 26, 2009 1:59 pm

Thanks Arnold. I'm OK, and nobody seems to need photos of my subframe, but of course it would be interesting to see it if it's not too much trouble.

Speaking of trouble, there may be some bugs in the system. When I tried to reply by entering my username and the security code (the embedded letters and numbers) I was told that I couldn't use "alan" because it was already taken.

hillman

Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby hillman » Sat Dec 26, 2009 10:51 pm

I have a Ym1500 with a front loader and would like to see pictures of your subframes. I sometimes tend to overload my loader and would be better with a sub frame. Thanks Hillman

Arnold
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby Arnold » Sun Dec 27, 2009 6:02 pm

Alan,
I know you were looking into either repairing your bell housing or buying a used one (I think you bought the used one). What did you find out about different methods of repairing cracked cast iron?

The sub frame runs from below the engine to the three point hitch. Any particular part of the sub frame you would like to see?

al

Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby al » Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:21 am

Thanks for the photo offer, but I'm OK now. I should think that many other Yanmaranians with FELs would be delighted to see how to protect their rigs, but nobody was interested enough to walk me through the photo-posting procedure.

One school of thought says cast can't be welded. Another holds that it can if it's done right. I went with the third school that says "it depends." I'm lucky to have the dealer where I bought it new, who has a major tractor-repair facility, and where I bring my Yannie for whatever work I don't feel comfortable trying myself or don't have the equipment for. One of their techs is a welder, and I've seen him doing good work.

They sent a photo of the break that could be seen on the tractor to a welding shop in Toronto that they use, and that advertises a specialty in cast welding. Answer: "Sorry, impossible." When the ruptured housing was removed, it looked much worse, because now you could see the break was all the way around.

Arnold
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby Arnold » Wed Dec 30, 2009 6:43 pm

Alan,
The way to attach pictures: when you reply to a post there is a submit button at the bottom of the screen, a little lower and to the left is a "upload attachment" button. Hit it then browse and attach your pictures. I know a lot pf guys would like to see the progress on your sub-frame project. Info thanks to Aaron

alan
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby alan » Thu Dec 31, 2009 9:04 am

Sounds easy enough, Arnold, so When my wife gets back (assuming she hasn't met someone with a nicer tractor) I'll post photos mid-Jan.

About what I'd like to see of yours, for other owners, I'll suggest this. The subframe connects the front to the back to support what's between. The forward attachment is simple and obvious. But for the rear, Yanmar showed it bolted to the draw-bar holder (which I had to remove), mine locks to the rear axle, and you connected to the hitch. So it would be helpful if you showed the front and especially the rear connection.

Hillman: You can't really overload it because the hydraulic system is limited in what it can lift, especially if all original.

Arnold
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby Arnold » Sat Jan 02, 2010 8:40 pm

Alan,
Here's a shot of how the sub-frame attaches to the hitch. The sub-frame looks fairly easy to fabricate (it's just knowing those pesky dimensions). The sub-frame mounts to the loader frame in the front and to the hitch in the rear. In your case, where you aren't using the hitch, I think I would extend the sub-frame members and pickup the same mounting points the hitch uses (4 or 6 large screws on a flat surface).

Here's a picture:
Attachments
sub-frame.jpg
sub-frame.jpg (78.01 KiB) Viewed 3145 times

Arnold
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby Arnold » Sun Jan 03, 2010 12:23 am

Alan,
One thing to remember (before your wife spends a lot of time taking pictures of your sub-frame progress), the largest file you can attach is 256k. You can change the file size by changing setting on the camera before you shoot the pictures.

alan
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby alan » Sun Jan 03, 2010 10:34 am

Nice-looking work! How do you add the labels?

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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby Aaron » Sun Jan 03, 2010 11:06 am

Speaking of trouble, there may be some bugs in the system. When I tried to reply by entering my username and the security code (the embedded letters and numbers) I was told that I couldn't use "alan" because it was already taken.


If you are already a registered user you need to login before posting. The other way which requires entering the security code is only for "guests" that just want to post a quick message and don't want to take time to register. There are lots of advantages to posting as a registered user including the ability to upload pictures.


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