Making a Sub-Frame

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Arnold
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby Arnold » Sun Jan 03, 2010 8:09 pm

Alan,
The text is added after you put the pictures on your computer. My camera (Canon) came with software that allows the addition of text (and other editing). Other software (CorelDRAW and Photoshop) do a really nice job but cost more. What I normally do is take a bunch of pictures then go through them when they are on the computer, decide which shot shows the area you are explaining, and then start adding text. Some software will add text but not allow you to edit or remove the text later (generally the free software). You can work around this by making a copy of the picture and adding the text to the copy. If something happens and you want to start over, you can by going back to the original (the one without text). The nice thing is that you can experiment and see what works.

When do you think you will start the sub-frame?

alan
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby alan » Sat Jan 16, 2010 2:01 pm

Here are two photos showing how the subframe bar (described in my first post) attaches at the back and front.
IMG_0653_1.jpg
IMG_0653_1.jpg (148.96 KiB) Viewed 634 times
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IMG_0651_1.jpg
IMG_0651_1.jpg (162.22 KiB) Viewed 634 times

agirlandhertractor
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby agirlandhertractor » Sat Aug 19, 2017 7:37 am

I bought steel to do something similar to this on my 1601D. After seeing my new parts tractor, how easily the bell housing was cracked in two from a falling tree, I am eager to get this underway.

Wish there were more pics of other folks sub frames to look at.

alan
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby alan » Sat Aug 19, 2017 9:03 am

For those who've been scratching their heads reading this, let me recap. I've had no problems since my dealer designed and installed a subframe nine years ago. It holds the back and front together on tractors that use the drivetrain as a frame. (That's why Yanmars were not designed for the stress of a front loader and especially a backhoe. When either end has an attachment lifting up, an equal force pulls the middle of the frame downward.)

It's a steel bar on both sides (shown in black in the photos). It's just under 1/2" X 3.5" (it's metric) for my model. The front attachment was simple but the connection to the rear axle was complex to allow for a mid-mount mower. (I don't know what further would be done at the back if I had a backhoe and didn't want to attach it to the factory hitch.)

agirlandhertractor
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby agirlandhertractor » Sat Aug 19, 2017 9:41 am

Alan, where the rear subframe connects to the axle, did they tap holes in the axle itself? Hard to see from the angle of the picture.

alan
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby alan » Sat Aug 19, 2017 10:12 am

Hard to see, harder to photograph, but looks like the four bolts are threaded into existing openings on the axle.

When the rears are off (one is leaking ballast so I plan to have them fixed and the rims powder-coated) I'll be able to tell and take photos.

agirlandhertractor
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby agirlandhertractor » Sun Aug 20, 2017 7:25 am

Looks like my 1601d also has the threaded holes. I have an aftermarket roll bar installed which clamps on to the axle. I could potentially use that as a mount point for something else...

One question I have though is that the plane of the subframe on the pics above is about equal with the engine/transfer/axle assembly. Is that really helping much? Wouldn't it be even better to have a slight triangle between subframe (bottom wide part) and the transfer case? I know you wanted to your subframe to not interfere with the belly mower. I don't have a belly mower so it's not a concern of mine.

alan
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby alan » Sun Aug 20, 2017 8:56 am

Good idea if you can work it -- a triangle is way stronger than a line.

If all back axles are threaded for a subframe connection, I wonder why Yanmar kept it such a secret.

agirlandhertractor
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Re: Making a Sub-Frame

Postby agirlandhertractor » Sun Aug 20, 2017 9:05 am

I had my existing loader frame reworked 5 years ago so there is a good place to mount a subframe up underneath. I would use the tow hitch bolt holes to tie in to the back.


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