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 Post subject: Brakes
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:17 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 10:40 am
Posts: 25
My left rear brake wasn't working on my YM180.
Took everything off and it was full of oil.
A couple springs are broke and I presume, since the pads are oil-soaked, I'll need new ones? Reckon I could clean them real good with brake cleaner or would they be junk?
Can you tell me the part number of the seal is and how big a job it is putting it in?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:28 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 10:08 am
Posts: 2111
Location: Ft Lauderdale Fla./Trenton Ga.
Just clean up the shoes, reverse them for a new braking surface, (how good do they have to be on a tractor :roll: ?), and open the drain plug in the brake housing and let that 30 years of seepage, (probably), drain out.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:45 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2007 6:25 am
Posts: 1860
Location: West of Toronto
You should be able to find a Service Manual for that model. For the small cost, replace ALL the springs. Check all the linkages from the pedal back.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:12 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 10:40 am
Posts: 25
I finally ordered a owners manual and a repair manual, as well as some springs and a filter.
Hopefully, I won't be pestering y'all as much.

You didn't answer the question about the seal.
Some of the oil that came out was pretty clean.
The rest was crud.
I didn't catch and measure it, but probably a half cup or so total.

An unrelated question: it shouldn't matter what height I use my finish mower at, right? I have a ditch that needs bush hogged, so I figured I could just raise up the finish mower some and use it as a bush hog. Opinion?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 12:39 pm
Posts: 1575
Location: Iowa Park, TX
The seal is easy to replace but sometimes very difficult to get to. You will need to remove the brake drum and, sometimes, they can be VERY stuck. Also replace the wear collar (the piece that the seal rides on) while you are at it.

SEAL

http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merchant ... =35x52x7TC

COLLAR

http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merchant ... de=sc-4305


THE OTHER PARTS ARE --

http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merchant ... E=180BRAKE

Quote:
it shouldn't matter what height I use my finish mower at, right?


As long as the shaft does not get in a bind or anything at a raised height it should not matter. You might raise the mower & with the tractor off, be sure it spins freely & that there is plenty of slack on the draveshaft so it can telescope in more if needed.

_________________
Aaron
Contact Me
(940)592-0181
http://www.HoyeTractor.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2007 6:25 am
Posts: 1860
Location: West of Toronto
There are four basic kinds of common mowers: reel (very fine and low cut), finishing (for normal lawns), bushhogs (heavier blades that can handle brush up to a good fraction of an inch thick), and flail (not a very even cut but designed for ditches and heavy brush).

Depends what's growing in the ditch. You can certainly try a higher cut with a finishing mower, but try to avoid thicker brush, and check the blades more often.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 1:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 10:40 am
Posts: 25
Thanks, guys.

I think I'm going to put it back together with new springs and a good cleaning and check the drain plug every once in a while to see what comes out.
It had been sitting for a while before I got it, so maybe it was seepage.
Then, if it's bad, tackle the seal job.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 6:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 10:08 am
Posts: 2111
Location: Ft Lauderdale Fla./Trenton Ga.
jmtw wrote:
Thanks, guys.

I think I'm going to put it back together with new springs and a good cleaning and check the drain plug every once in a while to see what comes out.
It had been sitting for a while before I got it, so maybe it was seepage.
Then, if it's bad, tackle the seal job.


That's how I would do it, for sure. It would have to be leaking pretty good before I would tackle that seal job.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 3:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 10:40 am
Posts: 25
Just an update:

Right brake that was sticking isn't sticking any more (or at least not enough to worry with). The cam was gummed up.
Left brake is going to have to have new shoes, apparently. After cleaning, they won't expand enough to catch the drum.
Changed the transmission oil, cleaned the internal filter and installed a new spin-on. 3pt is working great now. :)
Received the manuals the other day and learned that to kill the engine, you're supposed to pull the throttle all the way back. Mine is going to need adjusting because the only way that works is if I open the hood and pull the rod myself. I didn't have time to look at it, but shouldn't be that complicated.
I also learned, according to the manual, the temp light should come on when I turn the key to the start position. It isn't. Sending unit, maybe? Didn't I read somewhere that if you ground the wire out to the engine, it's supposed to light up and if it does, bad sending unit. If it doesn't, bad bulb?
An odd bit I read in the manual: To start, open throttle all the way. Once it starts, throttle back to idle. I've been around diesel engines all my life and never heard of such. Can someone explain why it would say that?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 4:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2007 6:25 am
Posts: 1860
Location: West of Toronto
I meant to post my mower comment to a different thread -- sorry about that.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 10:08 am
Posts: 2111
Location: Ft Lauderdale Fla./Trenton Ga.
Did you reverse the shoes and the cams, (if worn), for new surface. there should be a virtually unused end on the shoes, just turn them around. Are you sure it said the "temp" light should come on with the switch, ("charge" and "oil" lamps do)? There is nothing that I am aware of to cause it to come on. It does not on the YM2000, YM240. There is nothing to explain about the throttle position. That's just the way they work.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 10:26 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 10:40 am
Posts: 25
After chiseling/scraping/gouging off the gunk, I really had no idea which side was which. I didn't think, at the time, to look at the ends to see which was thickest. I know before I hooked up the linkage, I could completely spin the cam lever around.
Now that I think about it, I don't remember the right side being that much thicker and it grabs just fine. I reckon I need to go back in there and look/check some more.
The manual said the temp light should come on when ignition is in the 'start' position, that the charging and oil lights should come on in the 'on' position (which they do, although sometimes the charging lights doesn't go off right away). It doesn't. Now, I'm a little paranoid.

Back on the shoes, one end has a notch in it (for want of a better word), which I put against the cam since it spins. Should I have put that on the other side?

This tractor has 482 hours on it. Gauge works, so I presume it's right.
Although I realize they could have changed them out.
Body isn't that great. Looks like at some point in time it rolled over. bent up the hood, grill, steering wheel, and exhaust (which is welded). Tires have lots of tread, but are weathered.
So if anyone comes across a steering wheel, left headlight housing, grill, or hood - let me know. :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 7:26 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 6:50 pm
Posts: 36
Same motor in the 186 and same sequence of lights with the starter switch. Manual says "check that the coolant temperature indicator lamp glows when running starter".


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 12:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 10:08 am
Posts: 2111
Location: Ft Lauderdale Fla./Trenton Ga.
buppie wrote:
Same motor in the 186 and same sequence of lights with the starter switch. Manual says "check that the coolant temperature indicator lamp glows when running starter".


Very strange, does yours work that way, and is that a Yanmar OEM manual? The Ym240 factory manual says the "oil" and "charge" lights come on with the switch, (because there is no oil pressure and it's not charging), the temp light comes on when hot, (nothing in the schematic that could turn it on in "start"), and that's the way the YM2000 works, although my YM2000B has a gauge, which if you short the sender to ground the needle goes to hot.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 6:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 6:50 pm
Posts: 36
Norm, yes it's an O.E.M. manual for 186 and 186D "COLUMN TYPE PowerShift" (not shouting with caps lock, just presenting the typeface on the manual cover). I also have one of the reprints from Hoye and it says the same thing. FYI- YM-180, 186, 187,1401 are the same motor w/minor variations . I'm sure there are others. Yes, mine works that way. Page 17 of the O.E.M. Operation manual, top right of the page. Page 23 of the Murray/Hoye reprint Operation manual, top right of the page.


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