bush hog questions

Post your questions or problems you are haviing with your Yanmar tractor here.

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O~o\
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bush hog questions

Postby O~o\ » Tue Aug 15, 2017 2:33 pm

I setup and operated my new countyline 48" coarse cutter last weekend. Setup took a whole day.
The results were fantastic. Gonna cut a few more acres of tall weeds tonight!

Questions:
1. My deck did not come with guards at the front and back of the deck (prevents rock launch).
Where can I find a strip of short chains or rubber strips which are made for this purpose?

2. The nuts which hold the blades on are accessable by a small hole. Nut size around 1.75", so I do need to buy a new 3/4' drive socket for this.
If I use my impact wrench on this nut, will it be tight enough?

3. I was thinking of attaching a can of wasp spray in case I hit a hidden nest.
Is there anything you have learned that you can share about the safe operation of the mower?

Thanks
tractor mower-w_01.jpg
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alan
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Re: bush hog questions

Postby alan » Tue Aug 15, 2017 4:05 pm

1. My deck did not come with guards at the front and back of the deck (prevents rock launch).
Where can I find a strip of short chains or rubber strips which are made for this purpose?

-I removed my guards because I don't want stones bouncing between them and the blades. I just watch where I'm going and see that nobody's in debris range.

2. The nuts which hold the blades on are accessable by a small hole. Nut size around 1.75", so I do need to buy a new 3/4' drive socket for this.
If I use my impact wrench on this nut, will it be tight enough?

-That's such a huge nut I'd ask the supplier how you should undo them. My 3/4" set doesn't go that big.
Might impact too tight. The direction of turning serves to keep them tight as you go.

3. I was thinking of attaching a can of wasp spray in case I hit a hidden nest.
Is there anything you have learned that you can share about the safe operation of the mower?

-Attach to what? If you're up in the seat and the tractor's moving I doubt you'd be vulnerable. Return at the end of the day and give them a blast.
Rear mowers are pretty safe in operation. Adjust so the front is 1/4" lower than the back. Photo suggests you're overdone this.
Keep the blade-ends fairly sharp but not knife-edge. Keep away unless the PTO is disconnected or, better, engine's off. Finally, don't cut too much at a time.
Last edited by alan on Wed Aug 16, 2017 10:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

PatrickHanna
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Re: bush hog questions

Postby PatrickHanna » Wed Aug 16, 2017 7:06 am

I have that same cutter. It gets a little bit of a workout every year. I don't have any guards on mine and have never really had a problem with it. I have seen it launch pieces of sapling a good distance through the air though. I just make sure that there is no one around and if I am cutting near a road I cut in a direction that won't throw stuff on to the road. When it throws debris out the back, the debris always flies to the right. So I mow next to roads with the road on my left side. It throws a little out the front, but not enough that I worry about.

County Line implements are made by a company called Tarter, based in Kentucky. You might be able to contact them and see if they have a shield, but they don't do retail sales so you would have to buy it from a dealer.

http://tarterusa.com/mowers-rotary-cutters

I've also had a little luck with King Kutter parts interchanging with County Line parts. King Kutter sells a 48" rubber and chain guard for the front of their 48" rotary for around $75.

mirion
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Re: bush hog questions

Postby mirion » Wed Aug 16, 2017 10:07 am

What model tractor are you running that on? I have a 1510 and have been considering a brush hog

O~o\
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Re: bush hog questions

Postby O~o\ » Wed Aug 16, 2017 10:58 am

alan wrote:1. My deck did not come with guards at the front and back of the deck (prevents rock launch).
Where can I find a strip of short chains or rubber strips which are made for this purpose?

-I removed my guards because I don't want stones bouncing between them and the blades. I just watch where I'm going and see that nobody's in debris range.

2. The nuts which hold the blades on are accessable by a small hole. Nut size around 1.75", so I do need to buy a new 3/4' drive socket for this.
If I use my impact wrench on this nut, will it be tight enough?

-That's such a huge nut I'd ask the supplier how you should undo them. My 3/4" set doesn't go that big.
Might impact too tight. The direction of turning serves to keep them tight as you go.

3. I was thinking of attaching a can of wasp spray in case I hit a hidden nest.
Is there anything you have learned that you can share about the safe operation of the mower?

-Attach to what? If you're up in the seat and the tractor's moving I doubt you'd be vulnerable. Return at the end of the day and give them a blast.
Rear mowers are pretty safe in operation. Adjust so the front is 1/4" lower than the back. Photo suggests you're overdone this.
Keep the blade-ends fairly sharp but not knife-edge. Keep away unless the PTO is disconnected or, better, engine's off. Finally, don't cut too much at a time.


Alan - thanks for the advice.
1. I worked over some fairly large rocks yesterday without launching one, so I might not need the guards.
2. Looks like new air tools are in order for those blade mounts. TSC, here I come.
3. We had a large colony of Africanized bees move into a smudge pot earlier this year. Thank God for the beekeeper who took them away; it was quite the learning experience! So, hence my concern for hidden nests. We also had a landscaper killed by bees a couple years ago 2 miles away.
I could put a can of spray in my beer holder, but that seems just wrong...

O~o\
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Re: bush hog questions

Postby O~o\ » Wed Aug 16, 2017 11:02 am

mirion wrote:What model tractor are you running that on? I have a 1510 and have been considering a brush hog


It is a 2210D. At 27 hp, the 48" deck never bogs down running 2200 rpms. Set-up took a while for me, but it seems very well made. I went through 5 foot tall weeds with gusto!

O~o\
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Re: bush hog questions

Postby O~o\ » Wed Aug 16, 2017 11:05 am

PatrickHanna wrote:I have that same cutter. It gets a little bit of a workout every year. I don't have any guards on mine and have never really had a problem with it. I have seen it launch pieces of sapling a good distance through the air though. I just make sure that there is no one around and if I am cutting near a road I cut in a direction that won't throw stuff on to the road. When it throws debris out the back, the debris always flies to the right. So I mow next to roads with the road on my left side. It throws a little out the front, but not enough that I worry about.

County Line implements are made by a company called Tarter, based in Kentucky. You might be able to contact them and see if they have a shield, but they don't do retail sales so you would have to buy it from a dealer.

http://tarterusa.com/mowers-rotary-cutters

I've also had a little luck with King Kutter parts interchanging with County Line parts. King Kutter sells a 48" rubber and chain guard for the front of their 48" rotary for around $75.


Thanks for the info. Patrick. I appreciate the advice on direction of debris output. I will factor that in my projects.

alan
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Re: bush hog questions

Postby alan » Wed Aug 16, 2017 1:47 pm

If you have a compressor, an easy way to touch up the ends of the blades is to get under it with a small air-powered rotor chucked with a metal-grinding stone. (Then a better sharpening with blades off at season end.)

O~o\
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Re: bush hog questions

Postby O~o\ » Wed Aug 16, 2017 2:25 pm

alan wrote:If you have a compressor, an easy way to touch up the ends of the blades is to get under it with a small air-powered rotor chucked with a metal-grinding stone. (Then a better sharpening with blades off at season end.)


Yes, I have a compressor and 2 grinders. How often would you sharpen the blades? 20 hrs? 40hrs?

alan
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Re: bush hog questions

Postby alan » Wed Aug 16, 2017 7:44 pm

After sharpening, run a finger over a cutting edge near the end so you know what it feels like. After some mowing, repeat. When it feels dull, it's time.

Norm
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Re: bush hog questions

Postby Norm » Thu Aug 17, 2017 7:36 am

According to owners' manuals rotary cutter blades should only be sharpened to a 1/16" blunt edge. My 1/16" factory edge has only become slightly rounded in 200 hours use, and still cuts fine.

alan
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Re: bush hog questions

Postby alan » Fri Aug 18, 2017 6:34 am

I should revise my over-generalized answer because it depends on conditions. To mow golf greens you want knife-edge sharpness, whereas if you're controlling overgrowth with a bush hog, duller is better insofar as

-blades not easy to get at to sharpen
-want to keep and use the same blades as many years as possible
-blades will encounter damaging debris or bushes
-you don't want to grind out every nick the blade suffers
-OK if each cut is shredding or ripping rather than a faster-healing surgical snip
-the slight extra power needed for dull blades is not an issue


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