Do any tractor PTO options work on a Yanmar 2GM marine engine?

[Cadmus]

I am rebuilding a Yanmar 2GM engine and hope to find yanmar PTO options that I can add to this engine to allow me to run a blower (for inflating a dingy).... or a hydraulic pump to lift the anchor.... My dreams is a high pressure air compressor so i can charge SCUBA tanks, but i am not holding my breath (get it...? holding my breath). Any advice from folks here is greatly appreciated.

The Yanmar 2GM raw(salt) water cooled marine motor (produced in 1980-1983, then was replaced by the 2GM20) was part of a project boat I purchased a few years ago. It was on a boat that sat in the desert unused for 12 years!!!! On inspection I thought the valves were shut, I knew the crank shaft was not budging. Now that I got it out of the boat and took off the head, yep, cylinders were rusted after sitting so long. But this engine had sleeves and they popped right out. The rest of the engine is immaculate aside from the water jacket that had a few years of seashells and sand in it (now clean with no corrosion). (note to self: get a good water strainer) I was told by a diesel mechanic that this engine was almost the same as an engine sold for tractors but I have yet to figure out what model that would be. I spent many nights looking online.


If anyone here can identify the tractor version of this engine please do.

If anyone can suggest possible PTO options for this motor I am open to all suggestions.

Long time reader, first time poster,
Thanks, Pete

[winston]

Does your engine have a clutch? Any pictures possible?

[Cadmus]

Thanks for the response Winston. You bet. I am happy to post photos. Thanks for the help.
I will post photos. The first are photos from before I pulled the engine.
Then photos in the garage being taken apart.


About the clutch question: It has a Marine gearbox. Not a true clutch. It has Forward and reverse and neutral. I DID look into split shaft PTO options. I found nothing that was not TUGBOAT MONSTER sized. If i had a split shaft system it would need to be between the engine and the bell housing of the tranny, right? I may be wrong. If this is the way to do it, now is the time, prop shaft is out and the boat is on the hard. If people have suggestions of product please say so.

[Cadmus]

TRANNY AND REAR

[Cadmus]

Given how much time i spent getting that thing out from the boat.... i am surprised i do not have better photos. Sorry.


So in the photo of the front of the engine, you see the pulley that runs the external raw water pump (salt water) and the alternator. It has tapped screw holes, so that is a possible plate to take power off using a belt. I just would rather it not run all the time. Below the Yanmar serial number plate notice that the cam shaft end is accessible. this is used as a hang crank start. Keep in mind i purchased this boat a year ago, and it sat in the desert for 12 years prior. I never ran the motor. I LOVE the idea of being able to hand crank the motor in an emergency. BUT, many people say it is really hard to impossible. This is also a possible location to use as a PTO. It would be much nicer if I could retain the ability to start by hand, but happy to explore all options.

[Cadmus]

Sorry if detail is poor, the website limits the size to pretty small. Tell me if something needs zooming in on.

[Cadmus]

Inside

[Cadmus]

The hole that I am pointing to in this photo is not used for anything. It is covered by the front housing, forward. Aft it is covered by that little plate i have resting on the unistrut engine stand. Notice the 4 screw holes and the oils stained circle of the same size as the hole. So... I assume that in a tractor this is maybe a hydraulic pump or some other pump tieing into that large cam shaft gear. But this is just a guess. I originally figured this was the water pump on the marine engines that had fresh (coolant) water cooling. The 2GM was replaced by the 2GM20 in 1984. The 2GM20 was raw (salt) water and the 2GM20F was fresh water(coolant). I got photos and manuals for the 2GM20F and the fresh water (coolant) pump is on a serpentine belt shared with the alternator. pulley for that water pump sits above the engine, not meshed to that that right side access hole. That pump is well above that plate as seen on this website's photos of the 2GM20 and 2GM20f:
https://saltwaterdiesels.com/yanmar-2gm ... l-engines/
So.... i can only assume this block was also used on a tractor engine and that hole and mount is for something that pulls power off the cam shaft gear. My guess. i can find nothing. Assuming it can be activated and deactivated smoothly, It would be an ideal way to take power off.

[winston]

I can tell you the opening where the plate with the 4 bolts are is used on some tractor engines to power a hydraulic pump. Here is a drawing showing an example. However, I have no idea how you might find the correct gearing, etc. to run something on yours.

[Cadmus]

Sure enough, that is it. This is a good start. Thank you Winston!
Do you think the marine part numbers matched the tractor/industrial numbers? If so, i will try to start looking at that crank shaft gear for every model and hope one matches mine and has a pump in the exploded view. This could be GREAT. If you have advice on the best part websites, please let me know. If not the same nomenclature, it will be hard.

Do most of these hydraulic pumps on Yanmar tractors run constantly? Do any have a clutch? If not, what do you think the best way to avoid pulling power and avoid wear and tear when not in use? I assume, at worse, it can simply recirculate without load.
Many Thanks.



I am still interested in other ideas. I always felt engaging belts was less hard on the engine (however, maybe more dangerous). Please keep um coming, even if many years after i post this.

Many thanks. Pete

[winston]

The pumps on tractors run off a gear and full time circulating transmission/hydraulic fluid. Yes, I think marine and tractor numbers will interchange. No idea which tractor model number might match your 2gm if any.