Yes, rocker arm removal would be in order.
Timing will not be affected, all done through the injection pump.
If temperature light stays on all the time then your sensor is likely bad. Unplug it and if the light goes off then the sensor is bad.

276D stalled and wont start
Moderator: Aaron
Re: 276D stalled and wont start
Just found out the nearest machine shop is 2 hours away and are several weeks out on work! Going to check the head myself maybe take the belt sander to it. 
Temp dash light. Stays on with the key in 2nd position AND with the sensor unplugged. Lol. Now what?
The highs here have been in the teens, I dont have a shop or garage, and yesterday a kidney stone hit me. Could this repair become any more difficult?

Temp dash light. Stays on with the key in 2nd position AND with the sensor unplugged. Lol. Now what?
The highs here have been in the teens, I dont have a shop or garage, and yesterday a kidney stone hit me. Could this repair become any more difficult?

Re: 276D stalled and wont start
A belt sander??
Wire from temp check light is going to ground somewhere. It is suppose to go to ground when the sender gets to hot and closes it to ground. The 276 has a lamp check relay. Maybe it has gone to ground. Have you looked at the schematic? Explain to me the different key positions. One of the positions is for lamp check. One should be for run position. Which one is your light staying on?


Wire from temp check light is going to ground somewhere. It is suppose to go to ground when the sender gets to hot and closes it to ground. The 276 has a lamp check relay. Maybe it has gone to ground. Have you looked at the schematic? Explain to me the different key positions. One of the positions is for lamp check. One should be for run position. Which one is your light staying on?
Re: 276D stalled and wont start
Head removed and 1st and 2nd cylinder walls are scored pretty good. Directly across from each other actually. I assume a sleeve and piston replacement are in order? Terrible news. Biggest question is should I just purchase the 3rd sleeve and piston and replace them all?
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Re: 276D stalled and wont start
Pictures in the post above are the 1st and 3rd cylinder walls.
This is the 2nd cylinder wall...
This is the 2nd cylinder wall...
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Re: 276D stalled and wont start
I couldn't recommend based on pictures. I am unable to discern much from the pictures. If the one is not in bad shape then no need to replace. However, measurements probably need to be taken to assure things are within tolerance. The 276 service manual will give you all that data. Probably have pulled the pistons but if not you will need to. Also to inspect rod bearings. Were you able to see any areas on the head gasket that would indicate coolant leakage or a particular cylinder that has had coolant in it?
Re: 276D stalled and wont start
winston wrote:I couldn't recommend based on pictures. I am unable to discern much from the pictures. If the one is not in bad shape then no need to replace. However, measurements probably need to be taken to assure things are within tolerance. The 276 service manual will give you all that data. Probably have pulled the pistons but if not you will need to. Also to inspect rod bearings. Were you able to see any areas on the head gasket that would indicate coolant leakage or a particular cylinder that has had coolant in it?
Havent gotten to pulling pistons. Yeah, I had to compress the pictures so much to post that they turned a weird color. Zero coolant in the cylinder areas. But I dont think it was a head gasket issue. I think there was no coolant and a heat issue. I'm a little surprised, with how the cylinders look, that it wouldnt start so perhaps the head and/or block did get warped?
I can turn the crankshaft by hand. The #1 piston does not seem 100 percent centered in the cylinder, slightly larger gap towards cylinder 2 than towards the radiator.
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